Mila Savyon: Raw Fish, Handmade Pasta and a Bar Under a Brass Ceiling

Breakfast comes first at Mila: shakshuka, eggs cooked to order and cured salmon with cream cheese and lemon zest, served until two in the afternoon on a terrace that seats sixty eight. Inside, a curved, sculptural bar sits under a ceiling sprayed in brass, and its blue stools pick up the teal in the room's palette. As the day turns toward evening, the lighting moves through one of five preset scenes and the kitchen changes register, shifting to sashimi of sea fish, handmade pasta and whole branzino from the grill. This is Mila on an ordinary weekday in G Savyon, the commercial center at HaShikma 1 that anchors one of the wealthiest communities in Israel.

The kitchen cooks dairy and fish and nothing else, and it treats that boundary as a design brief rather than a limit. The spine of the menu is Mediterranean with an Italian accent, a nod to the years the founding chef spent cooking in Milan. Fish arrives raw, fried and grilled, and each preparation is built around one clear contrast.