OVO at The Altair: Robata Fire and Bay Water on West Bay Harbor Drive

The focaccia arrives still crackling, torn open next to a bowl of tahini loosened with olive oil and dusted with za'atar, and that plate is the whole argument of this kitchen in one gesture. It is six in the evening on West Bay Harbor Drive, the hour OVO opens, and the light coming off the Intracoastal has gone flat gold across the water and into the room. Two tables on the terrace are already taken by people who booked for the view rather than the menu. Behind the pass, the robata grill is up to temperature and throwing heat. Within ten minutes someone will order short rib dumplings with ponzu aioli and someone at the next table will order lamb cevapi with chermoula, and both will leave the same kitchen without either one sounding like a concession.

Chef Shimi Alon owns this kitchen and runs it, and his menu splits cleanly down the middle without ever picking a side. The Mediterranean half opens with hummus and masebahha under a slick of olive oil, warm pita alongside, sweet bread for mopping. Lamb cevapi comes charred and loose under tahini and chermoula, the herbs cutting the fat before it settles. Fried eggplant and zucchini chips land with tzatziki. The Asian half answers immediately: chicken kushiyaki skewers glazed with teriyaki, ainame seabass in a light tempura with fresh chili and ponzu, hamachi crudo dressed with avocado crema and finger limes that burst cold and citric against the fish.