Mamale Cafe: Shakshuka, Pancakes and Pizza on a Two Block Concourse

Half past ten on a Tuesday and the espresso machine is the loudest thing in the room. A woman at the window table is working through a stack of two pancakes that arrived under maple syrup roughly the size of her forearm. Someone at the counter is ordering a sixteen inch Sorrento to collect at noon. Outside the glass, Kane Concourse runs its two landscaped blocks east toward the Robert Indiana sculpture on the median, past the professional offices and the boutiques, and none of it moves quickly. This is Bay Harbor Islands, a town of five thousand nine hundred people on two islands in Biscayne Bay, and Mamale Cafe occupies the address on its commercial spine where Foozo used to make wood fired pizza.

What this kitchen does is unusual: it runs a pizzeria, an Israeli breakfast counter and a pancake house off the same pass, all day, without any of the three feeling like an afterthought.